GE dryer no longer listed?

[Boman]

Model - DDE7100NCL WH

Can find info on DDE7100MCL Wh but not DDE7100NCL WH

Anyone got info on the latter?

Element was broken. Changed element, still got no heat.

Schematic anyone?

Thanks

[jeff1]

Hi,

Too old maybe?

DDE7100MAL DDE7100MBL DDE7100MCL DDE7100MDL DDE7100RAL DDE7100SBLAA DDE7100SBLWW
These are all I could find.

Element was broken. Changed element, still got no heat.

Power checked to the element?....could have had 2 issues.

The closest that I had...
http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/GE-D...-25%281%29.pdf

jeff.

[Boman]

There is power to the terminal block but non to the element. The stats all show continuity

What part does the resistor play? How should it be checked? I had to set the meter at a very high setting to get a reading of 3.8.

Also, on the resistor board, there are several wire junctions. The top had dropped a couple of times while I was working on it, and some of the wires came off. I reattached them according to color, r to r, br to br, etc.. They all have matching wire except on the end where the resistor is. There is a single red wire with nothing on the other side of the board. The red on the other end was the first I had to reattach. It matched up to another red on that end. Seems odd to me there would be one wire with no matching wire on the board. I had wondered if I had matched the red wire with the wrong red wire, but according to the length, I felt I had made the right match.

[jeff1]

Resistor should be for timer advancing only.

There is power to the terminal block but non to the element.

The element terminals?

jeff.

[Boman]

There is power to the teminal block entering the dryer at the back (L1, N, L2)

No power to the element terminals.

I checked for power at the terminals with the door switch bypassed and the dryer turned on and running.

I did hear a slight crack when I tightened the neutral terminal for the element. Would this cause a no heat situation?

Would a bad resistor cause it not to heat?

P.S. When I refer to the resistor board, I am referring to the board like piece with the resistor on one end and wire terminals along the length of the":board" on the right side of the dryer near the back. These terminals are where the wires are connected by matching colors except for the one red near the resistor on that end.

[Boman]

Number on schematic - 9631D131P00L REV.0

[Boman]

Okay, the resistor calls for 3770 ohms. I set my meter on 20k and I get 3.77. Good, right?

[jeff1]

Okay, the resistor calls for 3770 ohms. I set my meter on 20k and I get 3.77. Good, right?

Good yes.

Would a bad resistor cause it not to heat?

Nope.

I did hear a slight crack when I tightened the neutral terminal for the element. Would this cause a no heat situation?

Shouldn't no....no neutral, all 240 volts.....should have a common, inner and outer coils.

There is power to the teminal block entering the dryer at the back (L1, N, L2)
No power to the element terminals.

Timer, motor heat switch, safety thermostat, operating thermostat, temp switch.

jeff.

[Boman]

I suspect the motor heat switch. I have never had to deal with a motor like this one. I am used to being able to manually push the centrifugal switch back and check continuity in the heat switch. I can't do it with this motor.

Guess I will remove the new element and scrap the dryer. I did tell the lady it needed to be replaced imo.



Thanks

[jeff1]

I suspect the motor heat switch

Join the 2 wires together to see if the heat comes on.

I have never had to deal with a motor like this one

Have a picture?

jeff.