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  • Kenmore dryer

    Model - 11066902692

    Not sure if I have posted about this dryer or not. I had worked on it for a couple a few t imes. It would always heat at my shop with no problem. When it was reinstalled at their apartment, it would heat a little and quit heating. It would blow the thermal cut-off on the heater cage. Owner said it had done the a few times evenw ith new cut-offs. tHis made me wonder if something was wrong on their end.

    I ended up with the dryer, got it heating again by changing the cut-off kit (New), and sold it after running it several times. Same thing with the new owner. It quit heating. I have not checked it yet, but I am betting the thermal cut-off is blown again even with the new high limit stat.

    What might the problem be? Centufugal switch in the motor? Timer? Motor overheating with a load of clothes in it? Moisture sensor?


    Why wouldn't the cycling stat and/or high limit stat prevent it from getting hot enough to blow the thermal cut-off?

    I have a second one similar to this one. I have to check it tomorrow that may have the same problem.
    Model - 110.63952102
    This one has a thermistor for a cycling stat.
    Last edited by Boman; 01-29-2015, 03:11 AM.

  • #2
    Model - 11066902692

    Just checked. This thing blew the thermal cut-off again with a new high limit stat.

    Anyone got any ideas? It is old and not worth a lot, but I sure would like to know the cause of this for future reference.

    Comment


    • #3
      Model - 110.63952102

      This one is the second one I mentioned. Sols it and had to go over today and change the thermal cut-off.

      This one has a thermistor and a heat relay. The thermistor ohmed at 10 or 11 ohms at room temp.

      The relay coils (P3-1) and P3-2) ohmed at 2.5

      The venting took a sharp turn up the inside of the wall toward the attic of this duplex apartment. I had tried to get my vent brush in it with really no luck. I had also looked around outside for the exhaust vent with no luck before I saw that it looked as though it goes to the attic and maybe vents through the roof. You would think so.

      Comment


      • #4
        That vent may be an issue.

        What might the problem be? Centufugal switch in the motor? Timer? Motor overheating with a load of clothes in it? Moisture sensor?
        Not moving enough air would be #1.....venting, lint screen, fan blower, dryer internal ducts, bad drum seals.
        Shorted element to ground.

        jeff.
        http://www.applianceaid.com/
        Appliance Repair Aid

        Comment


        • #5
          The vent is supect. The odd thing is both of the dryers are similiar and I expected the thermal was what had happened to the second dryer when the buyer called me.
          Sure enough, it was the cut-off. He is an older fellow and he had forgotten to clean the lint screen also. I don't really think it was clogged that bad, but that with the vent doing a quick 90 up the wall....
          I expect to hear from him again.

          Still find it odd these things will work in my shop...with no vent through the wall. I have a few times run flex toward one of the doors with no problem.

          On one of the dryers, I did notice some black burns marks on one of the element terminals. AS I moved my probe around checking continuity, It was a little iffy at certain spots on the one terminal as if the spade connector had been arcing. I did crimp the connectors some on that dryer in case they were a little loose.

          I intend to clean the terminals good so I can get a consistant reading with the ohm meter from both terminals.

          Still a mystery as to why the thermal cut-off blows instead of the new high limit stat.
          Last edited by Boman; 01-29-2015, 10:29 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Still a mystery as to why the thermal cut-off blows instead of the new high limit stat
            No mystery....parts sales!

            jeff.
            http://www.applianceaid.com/
            Appliance Repair Aid

            Comment


            • #7
              The hi limit doesn't "blow", it's a thermostat, not a cutoff. It may very well be cycling but it's at the bottom of the heater box and the thermal cutoff is at the top. With insufficient air flow or a grounded element, it can still get too hot where the cutoff is and cause it to trip. You can probably reset the cutoff by slamming it on a hard surface.

              Comment


              • #8
                Fixer, I should have been more clear. I meant it is a mystery why the high limit did not cut out and prevent excess heat buildup. I have slammed the cutoff and got it to working again. Glad to see you suggest that. I was wondering if I was one of a few that did that and how reliable it is. I know it does work as far as getting the thing to work. Hopefully, it still blows at the same temp.

                As far as the cut-off being at the top, it is nearer the end of the horizonal cage. I would think the same thing applies as far heat buildup due to aire flow/exhaust restriction.

                I have checked this thing for a brounded element. I am wondering if the one terminal on the element was causing the problem. Then again, this be a chicken or egg first kind of thing.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have a second one similar to this one. I have to check it tomorrow that may have the same problem.
                  Model - 110.63952102
                  This one has a thermistor for a cycling stat.
                  0

                  Just got the call. Heated for a little bit and quit.

                  He says the other apartments are not having a problem. BUt, he also says other dryer that a friend brought over worked..until it quit.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just got the call. Heated for a little bit and quit.

                    He says the other apartments are not having a problem. BUt, he also says other dryer that a friend brought over worked..until it quit.
                    Same apt, two different dryers? If yes, the air flow/venting would be a prime suspect for sure.

                    jeff.
                    http://www.applianceaid.com/
                    Appliance Repair Aid

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yes, same apartment, two different dryers.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Power and venting are common to both dryers then.

                        Do you have any older ones with no thermal fuses?....like that Dependable Care Maytag DE410 you had ).....I'd try something like that there, after the venting is cleaned out.

                        jeff.
                        http://www.applianceaid.com/
                        Appliance Repair Aid

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Actually I have a Frigidaire I had thought about taking over there. But I think it has a 305 or 352 or 360 degree thermal fuse/cutoff too. Don't have the model number right here with me right now.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Is it possible a load is causing problems with the motor heat circuit? Could the motor be the problem?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thermostats for the heat shouldn't have anything to do with the motor.

                              Don't have the model number right here with me right now
                              Well, we would need that

                              jeff.
                              http://www.applianceaid.com/
                              Appliance Repair Aid

                              Comment

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