Amana washer

Amana washer

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Thread: Amana washer

  1. #1
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    Default Amana washer

    Model : NTW4705EW0
    Pump comes on when plugged in. The only thing I have found as of right now that checks bad is the lid switch assembly.
    The pump comes on even with shifter removed and the tranny manually shifted.

    Do these pumps get shortded and come on regardless where where the tranny and or splutch is positioned?
    I do not have the water hoses connected and have not triedd
    Last edited by jeff1; 11-13-2018 at 10:48 PM.

  2. #2
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    Sounds more like something in the control is stuck/welded closed keeping the drain pump on all of the time.

    jeff.
    Last edited by jeff1; 11-14-2018 at 10:23 PM.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
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  3. #3
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    Lost power. Meant to say I have not connected the water hoses and have not tried any auto tes or looked for error codes.
    I tend to agree something is wrong other than the lidswitch assembly.
    Thanks

  4. #4
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    What about pulling the drain pump wires and test for power with the washer not running or in the off position.....if yes, gotta be a board issue. Have seen an electric drain pump fall off and the rushing water shorted the drain pump and damaged the control.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
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  5. #5
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    I don't think I have tried that yet. It did cross my mind, but I figured it had to be getting power since it was coming on unless there was a short.
    I think I need to connect the water to it and see what error codes it shows also. That and see if the shifter moves with the shifter arm free even though it ohms out to be good.
    I know the lidlock assembly solonoid is bad and suspect the board and pump. The pump has weird sound to it every few seconds as if it has play in it.
    I think I have a good pump I might try. That maybe disassemble this one to check for foriegn object that might not be visible from just looking in the end of it.
    Is it possible to bypass the lidswitch by trying the 3 wires together? If so, would one have to be disconnected from the other 2 after it locks?

  6. #6
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    Is it possible to bypass the lidswitch by trying the 3 wires together?
    Not that I am aware of.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
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    We have about had it with these new Whirlpool POS!
    1 and 1/2 year old one today leaking oil out the bottom. Tub seal let go, water got into the gearbox and now we have a gear box full of water and oil on the floor....and with the cost of these parts the washer is unrepairable.
    Fault codes you can't trust, noisy pump, gearbox/bearing/seal issues, shifter issues, pulley and belt falling off issues...we are no longer rebuilding these for sale.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  8. #8
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    Seriously starting to reconsider this also.
    I have 3 or 4 Maytags that roar. Not sure if it spin bearings, thrust bearings, snubber pads or wtheck it wth it is.
    I had thought about really trying to learn the manuals in the cabinet, si I can learn to really check each part AND the boards. My old mind has a problem goig to Page 8 Test 3 then from there to Page 4 Test 2 and so on.
    Then we have the suspension rods, snubber pads, scrubber pads,bearings and on and on to deal with.

  9. #9
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    My old mind has a problem goig to Page 8 Test 3 then from there to Page 4 Test 2 and so on.
    I know exactly what you mean!!

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  10. #10
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    Thinking this thing had just not finished the last cycle it was in or it is the type that empties when you change the settings or stop it for some reason and open the lid.
    Anyway, the pump no longer comes on automatically when plugged in. It does need a lidlock assembly.
    Little hesitant about putting $40 and up in it for the assembly just to find out it has other problems. Hoping I get a used one in that I know is good. If it solves the problem, I would order a new one.

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