Kenmore controller

Kenmore controller

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Thread: Kenmore controller

  1. #1
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    Default Kenmore controller

    Kenmore fridge
    Model: 253.60419410
    Controller : 297259507
    3 holes
    How to ohm?
    Check for continuity from, neutral to start?
    What sort of resistance should I expect?

    Capacitor checks within specs.
    When I first got this fridge, it would take a few seconds for the compressor to kick on. Then it might kick on and off a few times.
    Guy told me it had to reset when first turned on. I was not too sure about that.
    I removed the controller and capacitor to check the compressor readings. When I put them back on, it would come one as soon as it was plugged in.
    Not real sure about the compressor. It seemed to give different readings at different times, but that may have been the meter I was using or not making proper contact with the pins. Finally seemed to settle on 6, 8, and 14 . Is that a little high for this compressor? I am more used to like 4, 7, and 11 ohms.
    Was about to scrap it thinking it was a leaker, but thought maybe......
    Last edited by jeff1; 04-10-2018 at 09:34 PM.

  2. #2
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    Kenmore controller-relaytestinga-jpg

    When I first got this fridge, it would take a few seconds for the compressor to kick on. Then it might kick on and off a few times.
    More pointing to a possible bad compressor!

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Conpressor showed to be pulling .5 amps. Guess I was right thinking a repair did not hold up and it lost refrigerant. Guess thst explains it running so quietly. No pressure building in the compressor is my guess.
    Going to the scrap yard when I get what I want off of it.

  4. #4
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    Was also hoping the relay/start device might have been acting up.
    According to the pic you posted, the run winding is maybe only 1.? Ohms off.
    The start windings read within thos specs.
    Interesting.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post
    Kenmore controller-relaytestinga-jpg



    More pointing to a possible bad compressor!

    jeff.
    Between 3 and 26 ohms at the overload relay where the power pkugs in?
    Got no reading there.
    Thinking it was run low of refrigerant and damaged the overload/start device probably along with the compressor.

  6. #6
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    Compressor showed to be pulling .5 amps. Guess I was right thinking a repair did not hold up and it lost refrigerant.
    0.5 amps is not working hard at all...for sure sounds like it is out of refrigerant gas.

    According to the pic you posted, the run winding is maybe only 1.? Ohms off.
    The start windings read within thos specs.
    Start winding should always be higher than the run winding ( except on an inverter compressor ).

    Between 3 and 26 ohms at the overload relay where the power pkugs in?
    Got no reading there.
    Open overload then maybe?

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
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    Went to the bone yard with several others. Eighteen minus some parts. May take about that many today. Too many at one time had my weak mine going too many directions! May keep a couple of the electronic models and try to learn more about them since there are so many out there.

  8. #8
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    May keep a couple of the electronic models and try to learn more about them since there are so many out there.
    We all wish there was less!

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  9. #9
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    One think that throws my simple off is the different names for what I assume ti br basically the same piece. Controller on one machine is a relay on another.

  10. #10
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    Yupper...a war of words from China, Mexico and Korea

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

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