Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit

Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit

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Thread: Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit

    Its a Kenmore Series 500 Electric (probably a Whirlpool) Model # 110.67522600 I bought in 2010 used, so I couldn't tell you exactly how old. I would say at least 10yrs.

    THE LONG VERSION
    ------------------------------

    So, this has been a solid performer, its a real basic model no PCB's mechanical switches etc.

    A few months back I get no heat. I bypassed the ceramic thermal fuse on the heating element. I get heat (I only did that for testing mind you)

    I look up the part online and see that the switch is sometimes sold in a kit with the fuse and that they are often replaced together. I get that (not the genuine certified ones mind you) everything is ok now.

    Two weeks later, I take a load out. Come back 30 or 60 mins later, and no heat! hmm...

    So a couple weeks later I get back around to it, and I have this dryer in the garage, pull the back same layout everything looked the same, so I pulled the thermal fuse and the switch off the heating element. Now the fuse DID look identical, but the switch, while quite similar was not the same. Ok, so I put them in and it worked! LOL

    Then, I had an overheating problem. Obviously the Element wasn't being turned off. Caught this real quick while testing it.

    So life is real busy, and I didn't get back to it for awhile. In the mean time I had left the back off, and at some point I think an unbalanced load from the washer shifted things and the metallized foil vent line on the dryer shorted out on a hot line.

    I know that was stupid, but then I had no heat again. Ahem.

    So I reordered the parts, certified genuine whirlpool, and as I was installing them noticed yet another thermostat, and fuse on the vent line (going out). I decide to replace them as a set without ever energizing the unit. Got those, again these are certified genuine whirlpool parts. replaced both the thermostat and fuse on the vent line out.

    No heat! Arrg! LOL!

    THE SHORT VERSION
    ------------------------------

    Replaced element thermal fuse and thermostat (goes on heating element housing). Replaced the other thermostat and fuse (goes on the vent line out). All new certified genuine whirlpool parts. Tested the heating element 9 OHMS. Schematic says 7.8 - 11.8 is good. Tested the temperature switch (Hi - Med - Lo) I get a connection out of each one of the pins on each setting, so I assume its working, I didnt really dog it down to check the exact inputs and outputs, but the pins switch continuity when you turn the knob.

    I'm a bit at a loss here. I still get no heat. motor & drum work fine. I was about to start bypassing things to locate the problem, but dont want to damage any new parts.

    Just so you know I have degrees in electronics and auto mechanics, so you dont have to be shy about being technical.

    I have repaired a few appliances, but I'm certainly no Appliance Technician. I'm hoping some pro on here can put me on the right track, and if solved could help someone else in the future

    Thanks for you time.
    Last edited by jeff1; 11-12-2017 at 10:00 PM.

  2. #2
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    Hi,

    the metallized foil vent line on the dryer shorted out on a hot line.
    Did you check for proper voltage coming to the dryer after this happened?
    220-240 ac from red to black, 110-120 volts AC from red or black to white.
    If 1 of the 2 house fuses let go for the dryer the dryer can run but not heat, same if 1/2 of the house breaker triped the dryer can still run but we get no heat.
    I'd start there.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Nov 2017
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    I did not in fact. I will check both supply rails in the AM. they are on breakers, and will reset them. Thanks, I hadnt thought of that. I know sometimes even 220v breakers with a bar can trip only one side!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    4

    Unhappy

    power is ok on both rails great suggestion though. Sometimes the little things get overlooked easily. I have seen many times half a dual gang breaker trip one side, yet I still didnt think of it myself :P LOL!

    Anyway I suppose I will have to track the problem down one leg at a time.

    One question though, are the thermostats and fuses directional? The pins on them are not marked, so I assumed they are not directional.

    Any suggestions helpful.

  5. #5
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    They are not polarity sensitive.

    100.67522600
    Will be 110.67522600

    Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit-ldrwp-checkpoints-jpg

    #1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

    #2-Canister for the heater element.

    #3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

    #4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

    #5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

    #6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

    #7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

    If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  6. #6
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    Nov 2017
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    Smile

    Thanks you Jeff for the pics they are helpful, and for EVERYONE that took the time to read and post

    Oddly the problem was a defective NEW part. I jumped #1 the thermal fuse and got heat! Returned it to sears and got a new one. Works fine.

    Weird, rare, but does happen. Really baffled me.

    Very much appreciate all the help and suggestions.

    Sorry it took me so long to get back. Busy, busy time of year.

    Happy Thanksgiving!!

  7. #7
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    Thankx for the update

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  8. #8
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    May 2013
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    Ditto on not resetting the non-resettable thermal cutoff. I think this has caused me problems in the past when they just trip again.
    I do have a question though. Shouldn't the hl stat trip before the cutoff, or does it depend on what the problem is?
    If both are in good condition, what makes the higher rated cutoff trip before the lower rated hl stat, heat backing up on the in the drum because of blockage in blowering housing, bad drum seals?
    If so, kind of hard to understand where the heat might come from to cause the hl to trip first. I assume it has to do with the difference in the heat ratings. Cutoff rated at little over 300 degrees, hl little over 200. Even if the drum is getting too hot and the heat builds in the canister, the heat should trip the hl first, right?

  9. #9
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    Shouldn't the hl stat trip before the cutoff, or does it depend on what the problem is?
    On this one?
    Heat rises.
    Entrance will be much lower temp than near the end of the heat tube.

    Dryer No Heat - Replaced Parts - Worked Then Quit-ldrwp-checkpoints-jpg

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  10. #10
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    I have thought of that too. But then why have the hl in the first place?

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