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dual burner switch

dual burner switch

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Thread: dual burner switch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Default dual burner switch

    Whirlpool
    Model - gr440lxmb

    Switch number - 9761048 is the sub number for this new switch. Old number was 8522887

    When the terminal block is attached to the stove, should the red always be line two?

    I am having trouble with this stove that belongs to a friend.

    The infinite switches have the black wire on L1, but it is line two at the terminal.

    I will go into more on another post.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Default

    gr440lxmb
    I got GR440LXMB0 to work for me.

    Tech sheet linked here.

    When the terminal block is attached to the stove, should the red always be line two?
    What terminal block? Where the main power enters the range?

    The infinite switches have the black wire on L1, but it is line two at the terminal.
    Yes, it looks like they are calling L1 Black and all the L1's on the switches are black.
    L2, it looks like they are calling the red and all the switches L2 are red.

    If the red and black where switched at the main terminal block, it wouldn't make any difference to the ranges operations.

    jeff.
    Last edited by jeff1; 11-29-2016 at 09:58 PM.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Yes, I mean the wires feeding power to the stove, not the power cord itself. On the older stoves, I never gave this much thought. I saw where someone somewhere commented that red should be L2. In other words they were saying the block should have bk-W-R not r-w-bk. Kind of made me wonder if the ones with control boards were designed to be wired one way.

    I had another post on this stove and the way the dual switch was wired. Must have forgotten to hit the right button. .
    Is it normal to get a reading with the ohm meter from the black wire (L2 on this stove) to the cabinet or is it reading through the clock?

    Looks like the counting is backwards when bk is L2 and it is connected to the switches at L1.

    I have never had to deal with one of these dual switches before.

    I'll look at the link you sent and see if I can make any sense out of it.

    That is a very good diagram. The colors may be a little different, but I can now trace them to the element and limiter.
    Thanks Jeff!

    P.S. "If the read and black where switched at the main terminal block, it wouldn't make any difference to the ranges operations."
    So you are saying it is okay to put what is actually L2 on the switch where it calls for L1?

    P.S. I ran into the model number with the 0 on it too, but the stove does not have the 0 on the end. It does have the same switch though.
    Last edited by Boman; 11-29-2016 at 01:36 AM.

  4. #4
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    I was going to repost showing he way my friend had rewired this switch. I'll just tell a little more here.
    First, the bk wire at the main terminal was loose. I feel that played a part in the dual switch going bad.

    Guy said he plugged it in and he saw a spark. It blew a fuse in the circuit box. He told me where he thought the one loose wire went. I couldn't find a diagram so I took a chance. I think it was right. I checked the element and limiter then plugged it up. Big flash, new switch blown and the switch next to it.

    I thought the wiring was in a couple of molded pieces except for the one making unlikely to get it wrong. I was wrong! They are separate and some of the switch terminals had double connections. That explains how they ended up putting red and black on P1! One under the other. Also had two wires on H1. That might make a flash!

    Thanks again for the wiring diagram. I'll go back to it and check two elements now. Thats the fun part getting the top off wothout breaking it and hoping something in the board didn't get fried. I also need to get a bigger fuse put back in my old fuse box in my shop. Just used what I had on hand (35 amp cartridge). Gonna change that old box one of these days.

  5. #5
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    I am really concerned with black showing continuity with the cabinet. Of course when I turn one of the burners on both the red and black show continuity.
    Just wanted to reiterate that concern alone.

  6. #6
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    In other words they were saying the block should have bk-W-R not r-w-bk
    No truth to that.

    So you are saying it is okay to put what is actually L2 on the switch where it calls for L1?
    Not at the switches, but where the main enters the range.

    I am really concerned with black showing continuity with the cabinet.
    Ground is also neutral, could be the clock, light bulb, just showing continuity between line and ground/neutral.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post
    No truth to that.



    Not at the switches, but where the main enters the range.



    Ground is also neutral, could be the clock, light bulb, just showing continuity between line and ground/neutral.

    jeff.
    Is it safe if that is the case? Is it normal for both lines to show continuity to the cabinet when one of the elements is turned on?

    In regards to the lines at the switches that was my thought too, but I have another Whirlpool stove that everything works on. It also has r-w-bk at the main terminal block and, if I remember correctly, all the switches have L2 at the switches where L1 is called for. I do want to point out all the switches are like this on both stoves. The placement of the L2 is consistant all the way across where the switches are marked L1. Seems to be this way from the factory as I have not changed any of them around since I have had it.

    Hate to be such an ignorant pest about this, but I do not want to do more damage. I have already replaced the switch for LR since it blew when I turned the LF on with the (new) miswired switch the owner had replaced.

    If this was a stove without the board, I would think it would not matter as long as the placement of L2 was the same on all switches, but it having the board, I am thinking it would make a difference.

    I appreciate your patients Jeff Thanks a bunch
    Last edited by Boman; 11-30-2016 at 07:24 AM.

  8. #8
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    Checked the other stove for continuity between lines and cabinet. Sma results so I assume this is normal. And it also what seems to L2 where L1 is called for on the switches. It does have the molded terminal connectoor ends so there is only one way to connect them

  9. #9
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    Same results so I assume this is normal.
    Yes it is normal.

    It does have the molded terminal connectoor ends so there is only one way to connect them
    Idiot proof

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  10. #10
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    "Idiot proof"

    Too bad the wires for the dual element weren't the same way!

    I changed the switch for the LR that blew. All works now except for the LF. Have to get another switch for it..after I check the element and everything connected to the switch under the top again.

    Thanks very much for the diagram!

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