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Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all

Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all

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Thread: Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    11

    Default Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all

    Hi everyone,

    I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my fridge. I have a Whirlpool W8RXEGMWB00 built in 02/2010. Simply stated, one day it completely stopped cooling. I can leave it run all day and it will not drop below room temperature. The fan runs and the light works, however, the compressor is warm, so I am assuming it is not kicking on. I believe I've narrowed it down to the inverter board, or possibly the defrost board (I am not sure if the defrost board would cause this condition or not, or how it could be tested), unless by chance I am missing something else that would cause this. I have tested continuity of the thermostat, which was fine, as well as continuity of the 3 prongs on the compressor, which all were equal, and also power to the inverter board, which was fine. There is only 1 single red wire that leads to the inverter that I assume is the "trigger wire" so to speak, I am unsure how to test that. I am now stuck as to where to proceed next. Any and all advice would be much appreciated.

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    Hi,

    A copy:

    The only way you can test an inverter is when it's on the compressor. You can check the compressor while it's off. Touch your meter leads to any two pins. You should have 9-10 ohms. Install the inverter back on the compressor and plug it in. Give it a minute to enter cooling mode. At the inverter you should have 120 VAC between the black wire and the white wire. Look for a red wire and a red and white wire. Don't disconnect anything. You should have between 3 and 6 VDC. Then go to the main control board and see if you have 3 to 6 VDC on the same two wires, red and red and white.

    Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all-inverter-board-wpw10233421-01722023-jpg Compressor inverter box combination

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    11

    Default

    This is where I get confused. There is a black/white wire that supplies 120 VAC, which I have tested and confirmed proper voltage. Then the only other wire is a single red wire, and I am unsure how to perform a test on a single wire.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    I have not seen one without having the 2, two wire connectors....not a single wire. Should check it to ground then.

    The fan runs and the light works, however, the compressor is warm
    That is the only part that kinda tells us the inverter may be ok but the compressor itself cannot run.....should check the warranty!

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Two new developments. I did as you said and tested the single red wire and grounded the other lead to the bolt where the inverter was grounded. With my analog meter set at DCV 10, it kept jumping from 0 backwards like it was trying to go into the negative side. Again I am not sure if I performed this test correctly or if that tells you anything.

    Additionally I noticed when I move the fridge around I hear a "rattle" coming from inside the compressor. Not sure if that is normal or not?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    Additionally I noticed when I move the fridge around I hear a "rattle" coming from inside the compressor. Not sure if that is normal or not?
    Normal.

    According to the wire diagram I got online the black and white is directly from line ans neutral, the red comes from the cold/temp control and the defrost board. Kinda looks like if the control is turned on or off the reading should be on or off to the red wire at the same time.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    A copy:

    You need to have 120 volts ac on the red wire coming to the inverter when the thermostat is on to frame ground.

    You need to have 120 volts ac on the black and white wires coming to the inverter.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I set my multimeter to AC Volts and hooked one terminal to the red wire and the other to the ground bolt, plugged the fridge in and was sure the thermostat was on. I got no reading whatsoever. Does this mean the defrost board is bad? As stated before the thermostat did test fine for continuity.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,330

    Default

    It sounds like it yes....either defrost board or temp control.

    Whirlpool fridge not cooling at all-defrost-control-board-4388931-01134273-jpg Defrost control board

    But, the wire diagram shows the same wire feeding the the fans....and you say they work.

    The fan runs and the light works
    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thank you for your patience with me so far, Jeff. I am not sure where to go next. Do you have any further advice other than start changing out parts and cross my fingers?

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