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heat and no heat

heat and no heat

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Thread: heat and no heat

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Default heat and no heat

    Model - 110.66902692

    Worked on this dryer a few days ago for a couple. It had some wires burned at the high limit going to the element, and I think the other was on the operating stat. Checked to make sure the wires were they were supposed to be according to the schematic. Also put a new operating stat on it as a precaution. Although that stat (cheap) is a little loose within itself seems like. The dryer seemd to do what it was supposed to do. This was a couple of days ago.

    Now it will heat a little while then quit. Checked stats, element and thermals. All had contitnuity. Before I did this, I left it off a few minutes to see if it would start heating by some chane like something was getting hot and letting go. It did not heat. This time after the time it took to check the stats, thermals and element, it did start heating again.

    I thought I found a wire off the thermal fuse, but that would have caused it to shut down completely, right?

    Now I am thinking it is the cycling/temp control switch, because I was told it would only heat on High Cotton before I checked the other things. I am thinking the switch ( 3399640) finally went out or is about to as it may be acting up intermittently.

    Anyway to bench test this switch? Both diodes (?) showed continuity.

    Comments appreciated.


    The owner had attempted to work on this and left a lot of screws out. Stats were barely hanging on and were out of the holes with one screw in them. When I pulled the drum, I noticed the back with the rollers seemed loose. It did not have any screws holding it in at all. I just reached in and pulled it out. Don't see how in the world it worked any at all. They did say it was noisey. I'm thinking maybe that and crossed wires caused the wires to overheat and maybe damaged the temp switch or visa versa.
    Last edited by Boman; 01-05-2015 at 07:21 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi,

    I thought I found a wire off the thermal fuse, but that would have caused it to shut down completely, right?
    The one on the fan blower should have stopped the whole dryer.....the one on the heating element ( thermal cut off ) will stop the heat only.

    It had some wires burned at the high limit going to the element, and I think the other was on the operating stat
    put a new operating stat on it as a precaution
    What about the burnt wires at the safety/high limit? A bad/poor connection inside the safety/high limit could be burning off the wires.

    Now I am thinking it is the cycling/temp control switch, because I was told it would only heat on High Cotton before I checked the other things. I am thinking the switch ( 3399640 ) finally went out or is about to as it may be acting up intermittently.
    Kinda rare for that to go....possible just rare.

    The owner had attempted to work on this and left a lot of screws out
    Oh crap, your first problem

    Anyway to bench test this switch? Both diodes (?) showed continuity.
    As far as I know just ohming it.

    Now it will heat a little while then quit.
    Power still good to the dryer when the heat quit? Power to the element checked when the heat quit?

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Default

    Still had power to the terminal block but none at the element when it quit heating.
    The wire I thought was off (the thermal fuse on the blower housing). may have gotten dislodged when I was pulling the others off to check the operating stat.

    The operatoing stat is not ...tight. I mean it does not seem firmly put together. I think I may have made a mistake by ordering 5 of the cheapest I could find. I checked one or two if the others. They are the same way.


    I just found it a little odd the temp switch only worked in one cycle. I think it has like 4 and only has two wires attached to it with two ..diodes (?) Not sure how to ohm the different cycles with just the two wires. Can that switch be bypassed?

    Not sure how to proceed with this thing.

    Btw, when it first quit heating while I was there, I moved the timer to different settings on the timed cycle to see if was may a bad spot on the timer. It would not heat anywhere until it sat a long enough for me to remove the front lower panel and check the stats and element.
    Last edited by Boman; 01-06-2015 at 08:12 AM.

  4. #4
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    I just found it a little odd the temp switch only worked in one cycle. I think it has like 4 and only has two wires attached to it with two ..diodes (?) Not sure how to ohm the different cycles with just the two wires. Can that switch be bypassed?
    The switch just sends different voltages to the heater in the thermostat for different temps....I have never tried bypassing the switch and so far I cannot rememeber changing one for not working ( have changed some for broken shafts ). Post the wire diagram Rick so we can have a peek.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  5. #5
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    Forgot to mention the red line at the terminal, not sure if it was used as number 1 or 2, had a little sign of being a little hot too. I assumed maybe something got jammed with the loose parts and was causing excess amperage draw. The connection still seemed tight just blackened a very little. I did take another cord in case, but I did not change them out.

    This leads me to another possibilty. Motor switch maybe? Could it be going in and out? It is not the old contact type. The wire on M1 was one of the ones that were burned into near the safety stat I think.

    Btw, the couple had bought a new safety stat and thermal cut-off that fit on the heater housing thinking they were bad. They said this was the second or third time they had been replaced. I only checked the ones that was on it for continuity, and they showed to have continuity. I did not check how much resistance was there.
    Last edited by Boman; 01-06-2015 at 08:34 AM.

  6. #6
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    I assumed maybe something got jammed with the loose parts and was causing excess amperage draw.
    A poor or loose connection will heat up everything on that circuit.

    This leads me to another possibilty. Motor switch maybe? Could it be going in and out?
    Intermittant is possible, usually the line comes in and to the motor, from the motor to one side of the heating element.

    2 versions...

    Link one.
    Link two.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
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    poor or loose connection
    I will check those again, but I was referring to the rear bulkhead being loose and maybe letting the drum jam. I guess that would oonly affect the motor? Centrifugal switch?

    He had forgotten to put the screws back in at the rear that holds the rear bulkhead. When I pulled the drum out, I literally reached in and pulled the rear bulkhead out also.

  8. #8
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    I guess that would oonly affect the motor? Centrifugal switch?
    Probably just the motor.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  9. #9
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    Jeff, sorry I did not see where you said to post the schematic. But, I can update you on this dryer.
    I took it apart again to recheck the wiring with the schematic. The wire coming from the switch on the motor (1M) was supposed to be on the element. It was on one of the thermostats. It was among a group that passed under the vent tube in the dryer along the floor. I had spliced some wires the first time in order to replace a couple of damaged ones.

    Make a long story short, I carefully rewired according to the schematic making sure the connections were good and tight.

    I also removed the tmp/cycling switch to test or poke around on with a ohmmeter. I did find what seemed to be a common and got readings on a couple of the settings on the switch.

    I also tightened the connections at the door switch. I then changed the power cord that had a blackened area at the red leg, even though the crimp on still seemed tight and showed to have power when it would quit heating.

    Not sure whaty happened, I called myself covering about all I knew to cover that I thought might be the problem.

    I ran it for about an hour and a half. Everything seemed fine. The temp/cycling switch even started working in all settings. Maybe the terminals had gotten a little dirty. The guy told me it had sat outside for a pretty good while before it was given to him.

    Took it back to them and so far, so good.

    Thanks for the help.
    Last edited by Boman; 01-08-2015 at 08:41 AM.

  10. #10
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    OOps, miswired.

    Thankx for the update.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

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