Kenmore 11068202794 Clothes Dryer runs but no heat. I'm Stuck!

[06caurru]

Hello,
I'll start with a little background info. I have no idea how old my dryer is as it came with the house I bought. I have lived in this house going on seven years, if that means anything. It does appear to be a fairly newer model (not 20+ years old haha). Earlier last year, I noticed it was taking longer for loads to get dry. It then got to a point where the auto/low heat setting would not heat at all, but the timed/high heat setting would still heat. Then all heat ceased, but the drum still rolls, and air blows out the duct. I also noticed the timer will not stop the machine at the end of the auto cycle, but will on timed cycle. I have checked all lint/duct areas, but they are pretty clean, and airflow out of the back of the machine is pretty good and steady.

SO...flash forward to recent:
I have replaced the heating element, high limit thermostat, and the thermal cut-off thermostat. I read on another board another person had similar issues with their dryer as mine and said it was the timer power resistor, so I replaced that today, but no avail. **EDIT** After posting this, I ran tests on the cycling thermostat, and that seemed to check out O.K. as well.
If I am running and reading my multimeter correctly, it shows proper power to the dryer. I'm getting frustrated as it probably is either something simple that I have been over looking, or, with my luck, it's going to be the most expensive piece to replace.

**Second Edit** What are the chances of it actually being my timer assembly? Are timers supposed to buzz when they are at the end of their cycle? I can't remember mine buzzing for the longest time..
Please Help!

[jeff1]

Hi,

Poor or slow drying is different than no heat at all.....could have two issues and hopefully once the no heat is resolved we are not back to poor or slow drying.
Timers normally will not advance without the heat working for the auto cycles, timed dry is different and the timer normally will advance without the heat working.
Timer normally doesn't make the end of cycle noise, a buzzer does.

If I am running and reading my multimeter correctly, it shows proper power to the dryer.

What was the readings? Black to red...red to white, black to white?


#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

#2-Canister for the heater element.

#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.


If you have no power across the heating element wires, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working.

jeff.

[thefixer]

Unplug dryer, open control panel and disconnect red wire from timer, make sure it isn't touching anything. Plug dryer back in and start it. Measure voltage between that red wire and the timer WB terminal. If you don't get 120vac, heater circuit is open. Since you've replaced the heat coil, hi-limit, thermal cutoff and checked the cycling thermostat, the only thing left is the motor switch or your missing one leg of the 240vac feed. Check condition of wiring and terminals at motor connector. You can check the motor heat switch by activating the centrifugal mechanism manually. Heat switch is between where the two red wires connect. With dryer unplugged, open small panel at top center back of dryer. Check condition of power cord connections. Look for loose connections, burning and/or melting of wires. BTW, dryer is a 1998 model.

[06caurru]

Unplug dryer, open control panel and disconnect red wire from timer, make sure it isn't touching anything. Plug dryer back in and start it. Measure voltage between that red wire and the timer WB terminal. If you don't get 120vac, heater circuit is open. Since you've replaced the heat coil, hi-limit, thermal cutoff and checked the cycling thermostat, the only thing left is the motor switch or your missing one leg of the 240vac feed. Check condition of wiring and terminals at motor connector. You can check the motor heat switch by activating the centrifugal mechanism manually. Heat switch is between where the two red wires connect. With dryer unplugged, open small panel at top center back of dryer. Check condition of power cord connections. Look for loose connections, burning and/or melting of wires. BTW, dryer is a 1998 model.

Could you please elaborate a little more on how to locate and correctly check the motor switch?

[thefixer]

Motor switch is the part on the motor that the wiring harness plugs into. Unplug wiring connector, check continuity on motor terminals that the two red wires connect to (two outside terminals). Should read open. Activate centrifugal mechanism by pushing disc toward rear of motor and hold while checking continuity on those same two terminals. Should now read 0 (zero) ohms.

Eric

[jeff1]

What was the readings? Black to red...red to white, black to white?

or your missing one leg of the 240vac feed

What was your readings??

jeff.

[06caurru]

What was your readings??

jeff.

Jeff - I guess I'm not understanding exactly what you mean "Black to red...red to white, black to white?"



When I removed all the wires from the high limit thermostat(#3 in diagram above) , plugged it in and turned on the machine again, and neither of the two wires to the high limit show a reading with the multimeter turned to the highest setting in the vac range.

[jeff1]

Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V.





jeff.

[thefixer]

When I removed all the wires from the high limit thermostat(#3 in diagram above) , plugged it in and turned on the machine again, and neither of the two wires to the high limit show a reading with the multimeter turned to the highest setting in the vac range.

Are you measuring voltage between those wires and ground? Maybe your not getting good ground. Try measuring between red wire and neutral (middle terminal at cord connection block). This hi-limit has only red and orange wire? Other hi-limit terminal connects directly to heater coil? What was result of previous test that I suggested? Hard to help without feedback.

[06caurru]

Are you measuring voltage between those wires and ground? Maybe your not getting good ground. Try measuring between red wire and neutral (middle terminal at cord connection block). This hi-limit has only red and orange wire? Other hi-limit terminal connects directly to heater coil? What was result of previous test that I suggested? Hard to help without feedback.

Yep, I measured between those two wires with same ground I checked other wires with and got good readings. This hi-limit has the red & orange wires, then a jumper(?) integral to the hi-limit that connects to the heater coil. I just ran the test between the red wire and the WB terminal on the timer, and the reading is 123v ( assuming 120, but meter reads 123).

I tested the power supply at the connectoin to the dryer/power cord connection:
Black-Red = 245v
Red-White = 123v
Black-White = 123v