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timer bench test

timer bench test

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Thread: timer bench test

  1. #1
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    May 2013
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    Default timer bench test

    PN - WR09X10041

    How would I bench test this refrigerator timer with a n ohm meter?

    Cheater wires with power?

    Most info I have found says line 1 is power wire for the motor. I have seen a vid or two that the positions of the wire match this timer but not the numbers on the terminals.

  2. #2
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    How would I bench test
    Wouldn't it be easier in the refrigerator to test?

    Should work this way...

    timer bench test-samplesxsdiagram-jpg

    Cheater wires with power?
    Sure, 1 - 3 runs the timer motor.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Thanks, Jeff. I have the same schematic. Correct me if I am wrong, but the orange line is the neutral. Right?

    When using a cheater for a bench test on the timer, does it matter which lead goes where on 1 and 3?

  4. #4
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    If one were to bypass the run cap and install a hardstart temporarily, would you tie the white and the orange at the compressor together with a power lead on the hard start?

  5. #5
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    Correct me if I am wrong, but the orange line is the neutral. Right?
    Right.

    When using a cheater for a bench test on the timer, does it matter which lead goes where on 1 and 3?
    Nope.

    If one were to bypass the run cap and install a hardstart temporarily, would you tie the white and the orange at the compressor together with a power lead on the hard start?
    On the diagram above? If yes, shouldn't use a hard start on a PTC relay controlled compressor......all that being said, black and orange would go to the power wires on the hard start kit.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  6. #6
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    This one has 3 wires not just black and orange. These are shown in the schematic. White and orange at the relay coming from the run cap. Black at the overload. This one is actually black and white. What would you do with the white wire?

    I ask this because I understood you to indicate that even though this should not be done, it could be until the correct part came in. I was thinking for testing purposes to see if the unit was worth ordering anything to go on it.

    Thanks

    P.S. I think I just figured it out. I had connected the white and orange to bypass the run cap. Disconnect this, remove the white that went to the relay and just use the orange with the black and white at the hard start?
    Last edited by Boman; 01-03-2014 at 08:47 AM.

  7. #7
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    Write down where they came from and where they go....remove the two wires for the run cap and just use the 2 left over ones....those should be the 120 volts from the refrigerator to run the compressor.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  8. #8
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    That's what I just said! .....I think. LOL!

    Hehehe, thanks.

  9. #9
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    Kinda, sorta, maybe

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post
    Kinda, sorta, maybe

    jeff.
    My wife says she understands you completely.

    I sometimes quote Cool Man Luke (?) (Movie with Steve McQueen)

    " Whut we haave hea is a failya to commoonicate".


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