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G.E. Spacemaker

G.E. Spacemaker

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Thread: G.E. Spacemaker

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    1,481

    Default G.E. Spacemaker

    Model - WSM2700RAWWH

    Washer dryer combo.
    I have never been inside one of these, and have not been able to find a video on it yet.
    Have to gain access to the water inlet valve through the front? Or, does the top come off?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Canada
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    This is a Frigidaire unit with a GE name on it....access helps...

    http://www.applianceaid.com/frigidai...help.php#apart
    http://www.applianceaid.com/frigidai...dryer-help.php

    Have to gain access to the water inlet valve through the front?
    Front.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks very much for the quick response, Jeff.

    You never cease to amaze me with the material you have access to.

  4. #4
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    Happy we could help

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  5. #5
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    This one accessed through the front...sort of. Removed the front then removed the top to get to the water valve. The temp switch checks to be bad on one side. May explain why one side of the valve was capped off.

    Looks like I would catch on to these little tells. Should have been a red flag.
    Oh well, I can wire it for either or I guess. Can't see it is worth the price of that switch to sell. I may check around on the price again.

  6. #6
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    The temp switch checks to be bad on one side.
    Consol switch is bad....that is rare. Fill valve checked ok?...tried a test cord on both sides?

    Is there any #'s printed on the switch?

    G.E. Spacemaker-temperature-switch-wh12x738-00587278-jpg Water temperature selector switch Manufacturer Number WH12X738

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  7. #7
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    Default

    There were some numbers on the switch, but I didn't take the time to really look at them. I did see them on a diagram of the unit.
    The switch has a blue/black wire, blue, yellow/black, and yellow. One pair would show to be making up (bl/bk and bl). The other (y/bk and y) would not show any continuity when the switch was switched.

    I did clean the contacts on the solonoids off on the valve to get a reading on the ohm meter.
    I guess I should try the cheater cord on the solenoids. I wish I had recorded the readings. Seems to me they were in the mid 800's.

    Still wouldn't explain only one pair of leads at the switch closing.

    I had considered the possibilty of a mechanical failure of the valve, but when I couldn't get a reading on both sets of leads at the temp switch, I really didn't give it anymore thought.

    How would I check to see if the power is getting to the pair that is not closing? Incoming to ground?
    Thanks.

    Come to think of it, I did switch the leads at the temp switch and still got water in the tub at the same setting (cold). Does that fact not indicate both solonoids are working?
    Last edited by Boman; 11-28-2013 at 06:44 AM.

  8. #8
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    Come to think of it, I did switch the leads at the temp switch and still got water in the tub at the same setting (cold). Does that fact not indicate both solonoids are working?
    Hopefully.

    There were some numbers on the switch, but I didn't take the time to really look at them
    This unit is a Frigidaire built unit with a GE name on it....GE parts are more expensive, thought we would try and see if we can get the Frigidaire version which may be cheaper.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  9. #9
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    I have definitely noticed that about GE parts in the past

    I came up with the same number as you on the schematic at A-1's site for the GE.

  10. #10
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